Pobeda (7.439 m) is the highest mountain of the area Tian Shan, which is located on the borders connecting Kyrgyztan and Kazakstan with China. It is a massif vault, covered with snow and ice, located only 10 miles south of the second highest peak of the area, the Khan Tengri (7.010 m).
Up until the 1930's the Khan Tengri was considered to be the highest peak in Tian Shan. The icy mass covering Pobeda, which is almost always hidden behind thick clouds, had slipped the attention of the mountaineers - explorers of the time. The geographical discovery of the peak Pobeda was achieved in 1943 and the first successful ascension (climbing) in 1956 during an expedition under the leadership of V. Abalakov, after having struggled for 30 days.
Many climbers had attempted to reach the "forbidden peak" - the result being more often than not tragic - like in the case of 1955, when 11 out of 12 members of the expedition from Kazakh, died in their tents at the 6.900 m, during a terrible snowstorm.
Pobeda is the northest peak over 7.000 m around the world. The weather conditions during the ascension are particularly cruel. The rare sunny days are interrupted by large periods of bad weather, during which the icy wind is reaching high velocity levels, which hinder the ascension tremendously. Its main difficulty is the frequent avalanches along with the long-hour course in an altitude of 7.000 m. It demands technical skills, excellent physical condition, not to mention good psychology. All that constitutes a great challenge for today's mountaineers - ascenders. This is the reason why the conquest of this particular peak will be marked as a milestone success
of the Greek Mountain Climbing Community.
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