Pobeda - the Mountain

This is an abstract by mountaineer George Ganglbauer, from the Club's magazine.

I will refer to events that took place between 2.8.2000 and 14.8.2000, dates during which we left base camp in order to attempt a last approach to the mountain, myself and Nikos Hadjis.

2.8: we arrived to camp1 with heavy weather
4.8: we made an ascent to Dicky Pass, the most technical and dangerous part of the mountain, for recognition
5.8: we descended to the beginning of the glacier to take food the fuel for camp2

Camp 1

The Khan Tengri peak and the Inylchek glacier from base camp

6.8: we arrived to 5200 m. through the difficult passes of Dicky Pass, where we organize camp2. We return to camp1 late at night.
8.8: ascending to camp2 following an dangerous adventure, since snowballs were there all the time; one actually touches us, but without adverse effects. 19:00 it starts to snow.

11.8: we remain in camp2. The temperature is very low, some 16-20 degrees below 0.
12.8: we decide to ascend to camp3, 5800 m. The snow though is much and the danger of snowballs obvious. So, we decide to descend to camp1, where we will think about what's next.

14.8: descending to base camp with much difficulty, since the crevasses are covered with snow and we fall in every now and then. We arrive at base camp late at night.

We decided to make one more attempt the next days, prolonging our remaining days on the mountain. The bad weather, though, that started on the afternoon of 15.8 and lasted till the 19.8 excluded every similar thought.