|
The cliffs here are on beaches at the mouth of a beautiful valley on the east side of the island of Evoia - a valley running down the wooded slopes of the Dirfis mountain. The most important climbing areas here are two large boulders - one on each of the two main beaches, the largest being about 20 metres high - and a cave a little further along the second beach to the north, from which begin two routes of extreme difficulty. Although the number of routes here is limited the area is well worth a visit. The sandy beaches here, facing the blue Aegean sea, are now very popular, i.e. they are packed during the July and August weekends. In the main they attract Athenians keen to avoid highly developed tourism - the area has four or five tavernas, but little else - who are keen to find a quality nudist beach where they can camp. According to the sign at the end of the dirt road, nudism is not only tolerated but obligatory. Thankfully, no one objects to climbers keeping their shorts on. Those wishing to camp free would be better off picking a shady spot in the woods you pass through before you get to the beach, where there is also a clean stream. Those wanting a few of the more usual creature comforts could ask for a rented room in one of the villages along the way or phone the Aegean Balcony 0228 61381, 61391. To get to the beach by car you leave the National Road at the turning for Halkida, then carry on up the west coast of Evoia until you get to the town of Nea Artaki. Near the town centre is the main junction with a road going off to the right, heading for Steni. Beyond this village the road climbs the Dirfi Mountain before descending first to the village of Stropones. Shortly after the next village, Lamari, the asphalt ends and the 13-km of dirt road begin that wind down to the beach. All in all you will need two and a half to three hours to get here from Athens. Without a car, you could take the train to Halkida (OSE 5240601, 5240646-8) and from there catch a local bus (KTEL 0221 22640). ROUTES The rocks, which scattered along the beaches, offer endless bouldering problems, including traverses ont above the sea, or moves on small overhangs. The rock is rough limestone, somewhat sharp on the fingers, with routes demanding tirly powerful arms. Care should be taken on the routes catching sea-splash since the salty deposits don’t help with the friction. The height of the rocks varies depending on how much sand and pebbles are deposited on the beach. Consequently. In some seasons the first bolts can seen a little high up.
|