Amorgos


The narrow island of Amorgos is the most easterly of the Cyclades south of Mykonos & Naxos. Amorgos is mountainous and barren, with sheer rocky coasts, scattered ruins, notable archaelogical finds, and places of worship built with the characteristic ecclesiastical architecture of the twin church. The island attracts travellers seeking the quite life. The entire island is virtually the peak of a mountain range. It has steep shores on the east and small peninsulas on the west. Sailing around the NE coast, you will see some of the most spectacular cliffs in the Aegean spanning from 100m to 400m.

Rocks and climbing
The limestone’ s cliff is truly impressive since it emerges right from the sea.
Last summer while a "Rock climbing & sailing" scout expedition, Aris Theodoropoulos & two clients climbed a characteristic corner 100m NW of the E cape of Amorgos. The first route at Amorgos was named "Deep blue" 200m VI (27/7/99). Nuts & friends are needed, yet there is not any permanently protection on the route except 2 nuts at every rappel station.

The rock is not always solid but overall has good limestone.
Hundreds of routes can be opened in trad style on characteristic corners & cracks.
I think Amorgos is an attractive destination for climbers who like to open their own multipitch routes in pure trad style.
To access the cliff you need to rent a boat from the port of Aigiali (it takes about 30 minutes to reach the cliff).
If the winds make difficult the access of E cape you could climb in the mainland, close to Aigiali port:
  • 1. Above Aigiali port left of Potamos village there are two bolted routes: a. "blue path" 30m 6a F b. "John" 40m 5c (2 pitches).
  • 2. On the rock of the castle of Hora two more routes of 25m with bolted belays only for top-roping: : Agria I 6a, Agria II 4.
  • 3. On the road from Aigiali to Lagada, close to the big curve, there is an edge of 120m 5b (Lagada’s Edge) , in trad style.
When to climb
Avoid July & August because the strong wind of "meltemi" prohibit to reach the cliffs. To avoid the hot temperatures, the best time to visit the cliffs is from April to June and from September to November.
The East & North faces are in the shade after 12: 00.

Useful tel. numbers
Tourist Police of Amorgos 0285/71210
Municipality of Amorgos 0285 71246
Municipality of Egiali 0285 73350


© Copyright Aris Theodoropoulos 1997-2017 - All rights reserved